Return to Kapi Creek and Turkish Delights come to an end

Early on the Thursday morning we said goodbye to our friends for the penultimate time, as they left at 8am for D Marin in Gocek to join the EMYR (Eastern Mediterranean Yacht Rally). The wind has been (metaphorically) been taken out of everyone’s sails by the news of the Mining Disaster, so their celebrations for the next night were cancelled.

We nipped round the corner, in quite high winds, to Toomb Bay where after a somewhat scary mooring we had a fabulous lunch. How can some one make such a neat job of filleting a sea bream with a spoon and fork in one hand? (The waiter, not us As with all the cooks and waiters in this area, he had to double up as harbourmaster and pilot too!)

In the afternoon afer a gusty sail we moored in Kapi Creeek to meet up with the Flotilla, and spent a very jolly evening catching up with the lead crew and getting to know some of the new people.

We had a wonderful breakfast while I tried to draw a boat which kept being moved from one mooring to another:Turkey 2014 20

 

And in my archives, I happen to have, again, one I did a few years earlier, looking back the other way:

2011 Kapi Creek

 

Then it was back to Gocek for the last evening, and a brief visitand final farewell  from our EMYR-bound friends.  And after that a very long day, the Saturday, spent waiting to catch an evening plane. There’s a lot more oen could say about Gatwick Airport and baggage handlers on strike, but none of it is artistic!

 

So my last drawing is ffrom the Sunsail bar, spinning out the time, finshing my diary, and generally signing off:

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Round Bay

The discontinuity in this account has been the result of a couple of days with a very good friend in the New Forest wher although many good things – food, drink, laughing and talking – were abundant, electronic facilities were not among them. Come to think of it, the rest are far more important any day!

So we weft Fethiye on a beautiful morning, again going our separate ways after a lunch stop.

Turkey 2014 18 resized Our friends were about to embark on the Eastern Mediterranean Yacht Rally (EMYR) and needed fuel and water in Gocek, so we had a really satisfying sail – all one tack- the several miles to Round Bay where we met up again at the end of the afternoon.

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Turkish Delights – Second Monday

One day late, we got to Coldwater bay. The plan had been to walk up to the deserted village on the hill. It was abandoned in  1923 by the Greek population, somewhat encouraged by the Turkish forces, but apparently at lot of it still stands.I have never been there although the Skipper had. But as he was increasingly resembling Long John Silver (minus parrot) hopping about on one leg, it didn’t seem a sensible project.

Wickedly, in the evening, I got a Magnum from the ice-cream boat:

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So this used up part of the drawing hour. Then we were invited to partake of our friend’s devastating pink gins …

In the morning we had to move relatively early to get out of the way of the day boats – so no drawing!

Meanwhile back at the ranch, however, I’m starting to catch up with myself on the painting front, so I’m going to cheat with a fresh-off-the easel picture of a little homestead at the back of 22 Fathom CoveDSCF5209House in the woods at 22 Fathom Cove resisized

 

Heads we lost – Back to Boyuz Buku

The thing everyone dreads on a boat is when Things Go Wrong with the Heads (loos, WC, sanitation facilities). We had suspected that there was a problem with the system and observations in the morning at 22 fathom Cove confirmed this. So a phone call to the Gocek base saw us make a secong assignation in Boyuz Buku, as being a calm, quiet cove, with two Turkish Drain Operatives who came out by motoring a sailing boat. After much slpashing, spluttering, ducking and diving and using the rubber dinghy pump in various boat orifices, they solved our problem. Too late now to proceed with our plan to go to Coldwater Bay, so we settled for sailing about a bit, then returning to Boyuz Buku to enjoy a glorious Roast Dinner on board our friends’ boat.

I did a quick sketch before dinner, although as always when you’re at anchor, it’s a case of waiting for the view to come back round again as the boat turns with the breeze:

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Unfortunately our return to our own boat was punctuated by the Skipper falling off the dinghy. (there may have been half a glass of wine involved) Worse things happen at sea – except what we didn’t realise until after our return to England was that the painful leg that hampered Skip’s progress for the rest of the week was becaue he had, in fact, broken it.

However the next morning gave us a breathtaking vista of range upon range of mountains reflected in a millpond sea – fantastic, but not an easy scene to render in pen: so I added a bit of our boat with washing drying (see mishap, above) which brings a more domestic touch to the scene:

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Encounter in Boyuz Buku

So we left Gocek again and went on round the corner to the safe, green waters of Boyuz Buku. Our friends’ boat was obvious…and they joined us within a few minutes, in their dinghy. Spontaneous and warm reunion on hold while we fiddled about with the anchor – parking the boat safely always has to come first!

This was a brief encounter before continuing south to the piratically-named 22 Fathom Cove, And there we met Regip and his extraorinarily (whoops, over-use of adverbs alert!) colourful homestead. Or rather boatstead, since his Amigos restaurant has a boat as its hub, with various sorts of satelite installations on shore (as in, ovens, fireplaces, table and chairs. No Sky here!).

We ate wild boar, the hunting of which, although explained in Turkish, did contain the un mistakable ‘Blam, blam, blam!’ by way of explanation.

The ‘soundscape’ in the morning was incredible: a gobbling turkey competing with a cockerel; wild birds and clucking hens, goats bleating and their bells tinkling; a cow mooing and fish jumping..I’m afraid my modest sketch is a bit tame:

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Turkish delights – back to Gocek

Friday night on Flotilla is when you get back to base, have a celebration meal with your newfound and about-to-lose sailing buddies, and receive comedy awards from the Lead Crew. Not so daft this time – I was dubbed ‘most creative’ and Peter best at stern driving (ie going backwards).  I’m afraid no drawings were done – the usual forest of masts wasn’t that inviting. So having mentioned the Skipper I’m going to cheat and put in a picture from a previous voyage. I think he’s reading his Kindle. He’s certainly not at the helm:

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However, lucky us, we were about to embark on a week of bareboating as in, you go where you want. We were going to join up with two friends  who have their own beautiful boat. And I wasn’t about to stop drawing!

Kapi Creek

The instructions were simple.’It’s the last one on the right. If you get to the open sea, you’ve gone too far!’

This was the scene of our cocktail making party, and though we’ve won in the past, we only came second, pipped by the Dutch family whose concoction looked and tasted like something from the bottom of a pond (in my view – only sour grapes. Ha! Joke!).

The competition was forced inside by rain, as you can see from the drawing I started before it did:

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Turkish delights – Wall Bay, Wednesday

Free sailing day always prompts a great deal of chart searching and head scratching as you plan your very own voyage.

We decided to revisit Wall Bay which was one of the first places we went to on our first trip to Turkey. On that occasion the flottilla engineer put his leg through the jetty. It seemed a bit more robust this time, especially by Turkish standards.

I remembered the little walled terraces which as usual someone had painted white years ago, punctuating the olive trees, and roamed over by goats with bells round their necks.This was one of those times that I really didn’t get much done. I also tried, unsuccessfully, to create a mid-tone shadow by rubbing a wet finger over the ink, hence the smudges.

What attracted me was the way some tree trunks were black against the light vegetation, and others were white against dark:

Turkey 2014 26 Wall Bay stitch resizedThis is the photo I took to aid the memory and fill in the bits I didn’t have time for:DSCF5018 cropped and resizedAnd I can’t resist this little chap giving a masterclass in camouflage:

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Fethiye – Tuesday port

The Classic Yacht Marina in Fethiye is really smart, much changed from the last time I was here, although there are still the little tiled Chinese-looking buildings behind the pink Oleanders on the far right of the harbour. There are forests of masts and some extraordinary (and ugly) motor yachts. I didn’t get round to draing untils the following morning, after partaking of a magnificent breakfast buffet!

This drawing, like the others is a stich of two pages of drawing book, with no time to finish the left-hand page. I don’t think it’s right to ‘improve’ on the originals once one has left the scene. As my much more accomplished painting friend Jenny Graham told us in one of her classes:’you might make a different picture, but you won’t make a better one’. So at some point I’ll be taking these darawings, along with photographs taken at the time, and making ‘different’ pictures.

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As I said, the surroundings were very stylish – I specially liked the hanging of gorgeous old doors on the curved covered walkway outside the ladies’ loos:

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Karacaoren – 360 degree stunning

I shall try to relive the flotilla week, so Mondays on the Sunsail Gocek Flotilla are spent at Karacaoren, a stunning spot with views of a mountain with, at sunset, the heights wreathed in pink clouds, and a fantastic restaurant that looks out over the bay, and is an attraction all its its on, with fishing net drapery, a fruit stall inside, handsome Jan who helps you with your boat, and of course the usual crystal turquoise waters. The two drawings more or less join up, just a receding cape to the right of the restaurant. Then the mountains give way on the right to nearer craggy rocks. There’s about a 30 degree bit missing to complete the circle, and I’ve got a drawing of that from 3 years ago, but it’s on a differenr scale, with a different pen.

 

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